TR1ke build

[Venom 3 Wheels]

I have just reset my clutch spring plate after over pushing the pedal, the stop bar is not far enough out, but it will be this time tomorrow. Well if your hand brake passed then mine should too....

Have you noticed an improved experience with your new clutch?

Did you just fit the spring cover, or did you fit the Barnett plates too?

How much did you pay for them?

[anglais]

I havent tested the Barnett clutch allot, but intiall test is good allot more feel and you cant reverse it. One issue might be it is fairly stiff so there is potential for the cable to snap but it might ease off. I fitted the plates too, meant to be more hard wearing and as you pointed out removing the engine is a pain in the bum so did not want to do the job again.

cant remember how much i paid but just got them from ebay less than £300 ,

I would upgrade your clutch stopper though and not just leave the bolt.

When is the MSVA test booked for then?

[Venom 3 Wheels]

I think when I need a new clutch if I am having to drop the engine, I shall then replace with a barnett setup. I think my stop bolt is fine to be honest, maybe I am wrong, but its directly behind my clutch pedal centre, I don't have any play side to side with my pedal so I can't see any major issues. Its tapped into a rivnut and is adjustable, well I guess I will see :-)

I am taking it down to RTR on the 6th Feb, I imagine maybe a week or so in the RTR workshop with some checks to do, then hopefully at this time of year it should be through fairly quickly, gives me sometime to plate up my TR1KE transporter trailer ahead of collection maybe.... I made a substantial mounting bracket for my Clutch Stop so hopefully it's ok.... Just going to check it this weekend and see where the biting point is

[erik]

Apr 20, 2011 20:31:18 GMT anglais said:

Bit more progress, ended up buying a new fuel pump from ebay! one that venon pointed out! owe you another one for that.

you should be able to see the pump laid out ready to be bolted to the bulk head, both tanks in and all the pipe work for the radiator attached



swirl tank, im confused , do i attach the top pipes from the petrol tanks to the two side outlets to the swril pots? then make breather holes??? hope that make sense, any help gratefully recived

Have done a bit more on the dash, got the speedo attached, and bought a few more bits, will hopefully get a day on it over easter.

Hi Anglais,
I like your backmounted swirltake. Can you give us a link where to get one of these? i have been strugling to locate one like this.

Thanks in advance,
Erik

[edwinwl]

www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/

www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-swirl-pots-collectors/optimum-balance-products-aluminium-lightweight-fuel-swirl-pot

It is the bulkhead version

[erik]

Thanx Edwin!
I must have overlooked that option.
Would it be possible to use the base outlet option on this location too? Only to clean up the plumbing

Finally my shoppinglist is growing a bit LOL!!

greets!
Erik

[edwinwl]

My plan is to keep the bulkhead free and clean.

[anglais]

well you go away for a bit and lots of new posts to read with some good builds coming up too, one even pretty close to me as well which i will be reading with interest

so lots of small things done best get some photos up



Firstly i have put my new welding skills to use. I wanted some solid fixing points for my sliding seat bracket.



sliding bracket with seat fixing points



seat all fixed in and working great

[anglais]

The much talked about clutch stop, again with my new welding skills, seems to work well as the cluch pedal hits it dead on giving it lots of strength no chance of bending again.


Finally i have sorted the wiring on the cooling fan with the temperature sensor working on the dash now, also put a 10 pin connector on the wiring for the dash, so i can actually take the dash of and on which is a massive improvment.

Havnt been able to test if the cooling fan kicks in at temp becasue the outside temp is so cold the engine hasnt been able to get hot enougth




All back together after digging it out of the garage! just need the snow to melt for a few test drives to fully check all the mods over the last couple of mounths, fingers croseed no more problems!

Have

[anglais]

wrong photo, this is my clutch stop

[anglais]

Im still having problems with my cooling! im not sure how long any of you have run your engine for but before my cooling fan kicks in at about 200f , (takes about 20 mins just sitting there) my pressure cap realises sending coolant everywhere. I bought a new radiator pressure cap but no joy.

i have read up on this a people putting bike engine into cars have similar problems.

has anyone else had this???

i have three solutions

One buy a higher rated pressure cap (anyone know where to get one)

two , create a filling header enclosed tank next to the thermostat which is the highest place and where they are designed to be.

Third which is possible the easiest create a separate switch to turn the fan on keeping the system below 200f hopefully (would this work) im not sure if this is why RTR have a separate switch and venom has one too!

Ideas comments welcome

[Venom 3 Wheels]

A while back I had a dreadfull Quadzilla 500cc Buggy, it was one of those nutsty Chinese engines so didn't run very nice anyway, but I found that it always ran far too hot, so I opted for a switch to bypass any radiator switch. I have a USA gauge fitted so I expect the reading to be around 220F will be around 105C which is the point I would expect my fan to kick in. My SP1, VTR, VFR 400 and Buell all kicked in around 105 degrees C, I wanted to fit a switch to help the cooling process, Its an easy bypass, and a possible life saver. The other alternative is to mount the radiator back on the engine and duct air flow into it, or fit a high power suck fan on the front of it.

[anglais]

so you just fitted a simple bypass switch that you turn on and off when you need! there was no remote switching at a certain tmep.

cheers

[edwinwl]

The cooling system is connected to open air. So pressure inside the cooling system is about the same as the pressure outside the cooling system.
The only connection between the inside cooling system and open air is trough the reservoir at the side of the radiator.
As long as the reservoir is filled with cooling water, it lets air out and only water back into the system.

When the system heats up the water expands, when it cools down the water contracts.

The water pump is located low down at the bottom of the engine. As long as the water pump is sufficient submerged in water, it pumps water up into the engine forcing air out of the engine.

When filling up the cooling system of my tR1ke, I filled the radiator and reservoir all the way up. Reservoir is closed but the radiator cap is still off.

When starting the engine. The first few minutes the thermostat is closed. The cooling pipes are relative cold.
After this few minutes the thermostat opens and within a few seconds the cooling pipes are too warm to hold and I am reading a temperature on my odo meter. Starting around 44 degrees C. (Before it reads "Lo")
All the time I check if the radiator. If the water level drops I fill it up again.

I have not tested exactly at what temperature my cooling fan starts. At the moment the fan starts I put the radiator cap on so the cooling system is all the way closed except through the reservoir bottle.

The first few times when heating up the engine, the pump squeezed air out and sucks water into the system. So watch out the water level in the bottle.

[anglais]

Thanks edwinl,

So when you say the radiator cap is open, you left the cap off while you started the tr1ke to help get the air out! do you do this a few times letting the thermosate open and help get the air out the system.

mines fine until about 95 degrees then my understanding is the radiator cap has a presure system where when its too high it pushes coolant out the overflow through the resivoir. Could air in the system casue this?

thanks for all your help

Mines fine untill its about 200f